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Best self-guided cycle tours in Bordeaux

Famous Sons and Daughters

No region lacks some native sons or daughters who have made it into the history books and Bordeaux is no exception. The roman poet, Ausonius is claimed by Bordeaux as one of theirs. The Romans had arrived in 57 BC and by  the 4th century Bordeaux boasted a university at which he taught while enjoying the fruits of a wine-producing estate near St Emilion. His life is honoured by a modest monument at the bottom of the Cours D’Alsace and Lorraine, outside the Frog and Rosbif Public House. As elsewhere, poets and pubs seem to be natural associates.

Alienor, Duchess of Aquitaine married first the future King of France and  gave him up for Henry the second of England with whom she had a ‘difficult relationship‘. Her long, and eventful life is regarded with pride by the bordelais and it marked the beginning of a three hundred year period when Bordeaux (and its wine) belonged to the English crown. Needless to say the battle where the English were defeated after a hundred year war and the Duchy returned to French control is better known in Bordeaux than is Agincourt or Waterloo.

Chateau La Brede The French take philosophy seriously and in the galaxy of French philosophers Michel de Montaigne a one-time mayor of the city and the Baron Montesquieu have central positions. The latter’s family home at Labrede is maintained as memorial to him and his contribution to French political philosophy. The principal of these was  – ‘the Spirit of the Laws’ where he made the case out for a separation of political power between state institutions and so strongly influenced the framers of the US constitution. Even for those with no interest in the philosopher’s musings the family home which is a picture book castle, 10 miles south of the city centre, is worth a visit.

Not connected to the city but associated with the area to the south-east around St Macaire are two french cultural luminaries of the 19th and 20th century, Toulouse-Lautrec and Francois Mauriac. The former is buried in the churchyard at Verdelais not far from a family home – Chateau Malrome, while the latter, a noble laureate writer but not well-known outside the francophone world, lived much of his life at Chateau Malagar – a few miles away at St Maixant. The latter house can be visited but has little appeal for those who are not devotees of french literature. Toulouse Lautrec’s grave at Verdelais is a quite modest affair but the Church has a reputation for miraculous cures and is quite interesting in a mystical, spooky sort of way.

Bronze horsesIn the folklore of the city a special place is reserved for  ‘Les Girondines’ who, during the early years of the French revolution were the deputies elected to represent the city in the revolutionary assembly. Being moderates they fell foul of the more radical elements of the revolution and were assassinated in the days when ever more extreme cliques successively usurped power in Paris. Their monument today is a tall column with an elaborate display of horses and buxom women in bronze at its base and can be found on the Place des Quinconces. The valuable bronze was requisitioned towards the end of the last war to be used for armanents and it was believed the magnificent sculpture had been lost forever. By sheer chance they failed to reach the foundry furnace and were found in a scrapyard to be eventually restored to their place of honour in the city’s principal open space.



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