Vineyards and Valleys
Bordeaux’s Vineyards, Valleys (and Forests)
The real attraction of Bordeaux’s countryside for a cycling holiday is not simply that the lower Garonne and Dordogne river valleys offer easy lowland pedaling but that they give access to the wide range of landscapes that host a tremendous variety of wines and wine makers.
The estuary plain to the North-west is home to the Medoc reds and provides big skies, salt marshes and very grand chateaux where the chais hold millions of euros worth of vintage wine. This is either the ultimate languid cycling terrain or, for those who like to ‘clip in and go’, the chance for a fast 10k.
By contrast the hilly ground between the two rivers – the ‘Entre Deux Mers’ is characterised by working farmers on relatively modest properties producing the basic reds – Bordeaux Superior, and Cotes de Bordeaux (with some whites and ‘Clairets‘). These might now be tagged with the name of a district but are essentially the direct descendents of the ‘Clarets’ that were the staple of the export trade to England for centuries. You would find this described in most brochures as ‘rolling countryside’ (there are never any ‘hills’ in brochure world). We think we have found the best ‘rolling’ route through it to Cadillac and onto St Macaire.
Cross the Garonne at Cadillac, or St Macaire and you are soon in the terroir of one of the great Bordeaux wines – Sauternes. Here again you find large imposing Chateaux but within a tightly defined area that is claimed to owe its particular characteristics to the Ciron river and its autumnal fogs. The river also offers a convenient navigation feature as it emerges from the Landais forest at Villandraut and heads east to reach the Garonne between Preignac and Barsac. When I tell you that the family that owns the Louis Vuiton Luxury brands range has bought the Chateaux at Fargues de Langon in the heart of the Sauternes then you know that you are in polo pony territory.
Yet venture north to the other side of the Dordogne and you are faced by a complex map of tiny appelations – one so small there are only six producers. This area includes the international ‘brands’ such as Pomerol and St Emilion but also small and adventurous producers who have chosen to disregard the shackles of the appelations rules and produce distinctive quality wines using vinification techniques developed elsewhere.
These ’Garagistes’ (yes sometimes they are literally making wine in the garage) are the innovators and independents who represent an older tradition of peasant producers often with small plots and no budget or inclination to set up sophisticated marketing operations. It’s a landscape too varied to conveniently sum-up, embracing the table flat Dordogne river bottom, the limestone scarp as far north as the L’isle valley and a mix of rolling hills and flat estuary coast to the north.
The area on the left bank of the Garonne that is Pessac-Leognan and Graves is a completely different landscape again consisting of land captured from the enclosing Landais forest. This too has its big name chateaux – its Haut Brion is just one example – some of them embedded in the suburbs of Bordeaux, but alongside the river you could sometimes imagine yourself to be in Constable country with big blonde Aquitaine cattle standing hip deep in meadows of tall grass. That sliver of riverside pasture, too wet for vines, is one of the routes we have for escaping Bordeaux without traffic and reaching places such as La Brede where the Montesquieu chateau can be visited, or Podensac where the Lillet Distillery offers an alternative to philosophy.
We have made no mention of the landais forest with its Turpentine Pines and sweet chestnuts, wildlife, lakes and dedicated cycle tracks. We don’t want to be thought to be showing off.
All landscapes have stories to tell – often bloody, occasionally misremembered and sometimes celebrating virtues that are no longer highly valued, but they are what makes a place worth visiting. The countryside you can explore around Bordeaux is not one but a number of landscapes ranging from semi-wilderness to some of the most valuable (certainly the most expensive) arable land in western europe. Between those extremes lie small plots, family farms (- sometimes the subject of long-standing disputes over inheritance), woodland reserved for la Chasse, riverside meadows, hamlets and small towns.
A few of the stories that we know we have set out in other pages, but there are many more waiting for you to discover …..